Of the 23 medal winners at the national N.Z Extra Virgin Olive Oil Awards in Auckland last month, a remarkable 13 were awarded to Nelson and Marlborough olive groves, with both regions winning a gold for their oil.
Mark Heard of Awatere River estate in Marlborough has 8,000 olive trees on his grove. He gained silver for his Leccino variety oil and a gold with his Frantoio oil, which was also named Reserve Champion. The judging panel tasted 33 oils, which were entered from around the country, and awarded five gold medals.
Other Marlborough winners were Libby and Ken Fulton, of Creekside, who won a silver award for their Frantoio/Leccino blend and a bronze for Koroneiki. Colin and Hilary Clere won silver for their Minerva/Frantoio blend. Mike Treloar, of Seresin, a bronze for his Tuscan blend. Jeremy Laurenson, of Landfall, won bronze for his Leccino, and Carol Walton, of Serendipity, gained a bronze for her Barnea.
In Nelson, Rae & Peter Coubrough of Frog's End Estate won a gold award for their Frantoio and a bronze for their Koroneiki, continuing a string of awards they have received over the last 4 years which now total 13. This includes the Supreme Award for Koroneiki at the New Zealand Culinary Olive Oil Awards earlier this year.
Other Nelson winners at the weekend were Mike Eggers, of Clay Ridge who won a silver award for his Barnea/Leccino/Frantoio/Picual blend. Roger Armstrong, of Tasman Bay, with bronze for his Evoli brand Leccino, and Ed Scott, of Moutere Grove, with bronze for his Leccino/Frantoio blend.
Prerequisites for entering oils included a minimum of 100 litre pressings, the oils had to be checked with Cawthron and results sent to the awards. Each entrant then submitted four bottles for blind testing by the 24 member judging panel, comprised of three tables of eight judges, with each oil being tasted by 2 tables. The panel included growers Mike Treloar of Marlborough and Hilary Fenemor of Nelson. Professor Don Beaven was chief judge who was joined by guest judge Roberto M.M. Zecca the Italian judging panel leader of the International Olive Oil council.
Last year the oils were attributed a bitter quality, presumably due to the dry conditions. This year the oils were less bitter and generally considered of a very high quality. "Better balanced in terms of taste," Hilary Fenemor explained. Some voiced concerns, however, that later pressings from the South Island had little time to settle particularly as the awards were held several weeks earlier than last year. Roberto voiced opinion that New Zealand growers could consider filtering their oils to reduce sediment.
Rae Coubrough, of Frog's End believes part of their success lies in their sunny position on the Waimea Estuary, citing the Frantoio variety as particularly happy on their moutere clay.
They have recently removed pickling varieties choosing to focus solely on oil, "mainly Greek and Tuscan which are happiest in these conditions" Rae affirmed.
"Birds are one of our biggest concerns," she added "especially with the Koroneiki, with the top of the tress left bare at the second picking" They pressed over 500 litres this season, primarily Frantoio where their oldest trees at 8 ½ years produced 20-40 kilos each.
Frog's End is owned by Rae's brother Brent Hesselyn who lives overseas, and is managed by Rae and Peter as a family enterprise with Rae's sister Ruth being their "number one picker".